My journey began when I touched down in Dibrugarh, a small town in Assam that would serve as my launchpad for a 10-day adventure. I couldn’t help but feel a sense of liberation from the confines of Noida’s air-conditioned rooms that kept us sheltered from the relentless urban frenzy. This visit was a gateway to the forested, biodiverse and rich cultural tapestry in the north-eastern region of India, a place I had never set foot in before. The purpose of my tour was noble, as I went there to learn about WTI’s Dering Dibru Saikhowa Elephant Link Project. Commencing in 2019 and supported by the World Land Trust, the project actively involves crucial stakeholders, such as the communities of Assam and Arunachal Pradesh, the Adi community, including their governing body, the Adi Bane Kebang, and the forest departments from both states.

The team visiting the community conserved area in Mer | Photo by Dipankar Barman/WTI

The D’ering-Dibru Saikhowa corridor, a vital inter-state connectivity in the Eastern Himalayas biodiversity hotspot, connects D’ering Wildlife Sanctuary in Arunachal Pradesh and Dibru Saikhowa National Park in Assam, supporting over 500 elephants and key fauna. The elephant landscapes of Assam and Arunachal Pradesh support 75% of Northeast India’s elephants and face severe threats from the widespread destruction of foothill forests due to anthropogenic activities. This has led to heightened Human Elephant Conflict (HEC) as elephants are confined to smaller, less connected landscapes. According to the India State of Forest Report 2021 by the Forest Survey of India, between 2019 and 2021, the forest cover decreased by 257 sq. km and 15 sq. km. in Arunachal Pradesh and Assam, respectively. With 85% of the population in rural areas relying on farming, large-scale deforestation appears inevitable. Anthropogenic and administrative factors, including the changing course of the Brahmaputra River, pose threats to this corridor.

Dibru-Saikhowa National Park is home to a significant population of feral horses | Photo by Zane West/WTI

WTI in collaboration with the Govt. of India, has identified 101 elephant corridors across 11 states in 2017, as published in Right of Passage, Edition II. Despite progress, the growing conflict underscores the urgency of conservation efforts, especially in safeguarding these crucial habitat linkages. The Dering Dibru Saikhowa corridor, the largest by area in the north-east, is treated as a separate project due to its unique challenges in the region.

Over the last five years, the project has engaged with three villages, implementing community support activities such as alternative livelihood, surveying and demarcation of the proposed Community reserve areas, installing fences for HEC mitigation, and restoring 150 hectares of degraded forest patches.

Embarking with the dedicated field team, I traversed the diverse landscape, moving seamlessly from one village to another, crossing rivers and land masses. The exploration unfolded through various modes of transportation – boats, bikes – navigating through lush forests and even swimming across streams. 

A fishery pond provided by WTI to Namsing village in 2021 | Photo by Zane West/ WTI

During my time in the East Siang district of Arunachal Pradesh, I immersed myself in the culture of the Adi tribe, the dominant population in the region. I actively engaged with the community, enjoying freshly prepared soups made from the wild ferns we gathered together at the restoration sites we were monitoring in Paglam village. Fishing excursions with the community provided opportunities for discussing the effectiveness of the fishery pond support we offered to the villages of Mer, Paglam and Namsing. Taking breaks on the machan, I savoured tea made from fresh milk provided by the tribe’s cattle on the very land slated for a community reserve in Mer village.

Evening gatherings around the warm glow of the fire pit in the traditional Adi kitchen, I found myself savouring the flavours of hilsa fish and chicken wrapped in Ekkum (phrynium) leaves. The captivating space, crafted entirely from bamboo and centred around a fire pit, served dual purposes as a dining area and handwashing station. Notably, food waste was ingeniously funnelled through bamboo gaps to nourish poultry, showcasing sustainable practices. 

WTI has provided piggery support to the villages | Photo by Zane West/WTI

This communal setting provided a unique opportunity to delve into discussions about not just their culinary preferences but also their agricultural practices. Conversations flowed seamlessly, touching upon the piggery support extended to the villages of Mer, Paglam, and Namsing by WTI. The exchange also unravelled the significance of the kilometre-long fence, shielding these homes and crops from the challenges posed by human-elephant conflict—a testament to the delicate balance between the Adi community’s sustenance and the coexistence with their natural surroundings.

The most fascinating aspect of the Adi culture to me as a plant-hoarding, tree-climbing, foliage-lover was their deep connection to the Livistona jenkinsiana tree, locally known as the Toko plant. Toko leaves played a vital role, not only as roofing material for iconic stilted houses called Chang Ghar but also in crafting everyday items like hand fans and brooms. The plant’s fibrous sheaths found utility in rope-making, while the nut served various purposes, from mastication to button crafting.

Beyond tracking project progress, my immersive experience became a cultural exploration, delving into local customs and culinary delights. Each step added to a checklist, not just for the project’s progress but for a vivid understanding of the intricate and interconnected elements shaping the region.