It was early in the morning when we set off  from our field station in Hirpora, and headed towards the Tatakutti Wildlife Sanctuary (WLS) to conduct our Markhor field survey. The aim of this survey has been to gather information on the space-use patterns of the Kashmir markhor (Capra falconeri) and assess livestock grazing pressure by the migratory herders residing in these areas during the summer months. Located in the Poonch district of Jammu and Kashmir, the Tatakutti WLS and the Khera & Kulian Conservation Reserves stretch along the southern slopes of the majestic Pir Panjal range of the Kashmir Himalayas. Under the administrative control of the Department of Wildlife Protection, Government of Jammu and Kashmir, and the supervision of the Wildlife Division in Rajouri–Poonch, this sanctuary boasts a rich biodiversity. Once renowned as a favoured hunting ground during the princely era, the Tatakutti WLS is a blend of three historic game reserves: Tatakutti Wildlife Reserve, Kalamund-Tatakutti, and Kalamund-Tatakutti. With an expanse of 116.73 km² and an elevation range from 1700 to 4700 m, it remains a wilderness brimming with life.

The sanctuary’s proximity to the Hirpora WLS  on its eastern side, connected through the Chhatapani region, and its many perennial streams, such as Hingli, Palkan, Baranadi, and Soinad, make it a vital ecosystem. However, its most prized inhabitant is the Pir Panjal Markhor, the world’s largest wild goat and a species of global conservation concern. A near-threatened species, listed in Schedule I under the Wildlife (Protection) Act (1972), the population remains threatened by uncontrolled large-scale livestock grazing on the pastures and poaching. This has resulted in a disastrous impact on the habitat and population of Markhor in the state. Through the ‘Kashmir Markhor Recovery Project’, the Wildlife Trust of India (WTI) with support from the Astral, has been working in collaboration with the Department of Wildlife Protection (J&K) to identify the critical issues faced by both the herding community and the Markhor, while seeking effective conservation solutions.

Social surveys are being conducted to assess the socio-economic structures and resource dependency of these communities. Migratory herders, the Gujjars, and Bakkarwals, mainly from the Rajouri and Poonch districts, have used the sanctuary’s 12 odd Doks (grazing pastures) for generations.

After two days of trekking through the rugged terrains of Tatakutti, our team–  Sameer, Muneeb, Adfar, Shabir, Junaid, and Altamash – was utterly drained as we trudged back from Chotimarg to Bagla. Despite our careful scanning of the landscape, there was no sign of the ever-elusive Markhor.  Fatigue clouded our spirits, leading us to ponder whether our efforts were in vain.

Just as we contemplated taking a brief moment to rest, Shabir Ahmad, who had ventured slightly ahead, cried out in disbelief and excitement. High on the rocky ridges, almost camouflaged against the rugged landscape, were four Markhor—two adult females and two kids, no more than five months old. Time seemed to stand still as we stood in awe, witnessing these majestic creatures in their element. This sighting was monumental—Markhor hadn’t been sighted in this part of Tatakuti WLS for years, making the moment even more poignant.

We quickly set to work, capturing photos and videos of the scene. The sense of accomplishment was overwhelming, knowing that this rare sighting was a vital step in our ongoing conservation efforts. After documenting the moment, we strategically placed more camera traps to increase our chances of future monitoring.

Recognising the delicate balance between the needs of migratory herders and the Markhor’s conservation, WTI’s Markhor Recovery Project aims to foster change at the community level. It’s not just about safeguarding wildlife but creating a harmonious coexistence where local livelihoods and conservation efforts can thrive together. Through protracted engagement and careful planning, the project seeks to reduce the pressures on the protected area and ensure that the Markhor and the communities that depend on the land can sustainably share the sanctuary.

It’s a story of hope and collaboration. By bringing together herders, conservationists, and Government agencies with contextually appropriate interventions, the project, supported by Astral Foundation, is creating a secure and shared future where the call of the majestic Pir Panjal Markhor echoes in mighty cliffs.

Sameer Khazir has been working as Assistant Manager in the Western Himalaya Mountain Ungulate Project.