I was engrossed in the Animal Action Education project in Assam when I was told I had been chosen to go to Bhutan and cover the World Tiger Day celebrations on behalf of IFAW-WTI. The prospect of observing a cross-boundary international programme was naturally one that would excite anyone. Not willing to let go of this opportunity, I began winding up my work in Guwahati  and made sure all preparations were on spot for our short trip across the border.

After I reached Kokrajhar on Sunday, Dr Panjit Basumatary and I set out, with just slight trepidation about being able to do justice to this task set to us. A bandh (strike) in our district hadn’t made things any easier for us and all I remember was fervently wishing that things go off smoothly from that point onwards.

As it turned out my fears were for naught. We comfortably reached the Royal Bhutan Gate in the evening and were greeted by Sonam Wangdi, a forest official. After being eating to our hearts content (a road trip can really make one very hungry!), a round table discussion had been organised with officials from both sides of the border. The Chief Guest was Chencho Norbu, the Director General, Department of Forests and Park Services (DoFPS) who led the dialogue with the agendas of Global Tiger Conservation in Bhutan and across the globe.  Sonam Wangchuk, the Chief Wildlife Conservation Division, along with other forest officials of DoFPS Bhutan, the PCCF of Kokrajhar, DFOs of Haltugaon, Chirang and Kachugaon, forest officials from Bodoland Territorial Council District, representatives of WWF and Bhutan Trust Fund for Environmental Conservation completed the table as they discussed the status quo and implications of tiger population in Royal Manas Bhutan as well as other parts of the country. Looking at the dialogue flying across the table is when it really hit me how few people are privy to such exchanges and the prospect of erudition could not possibly be ignored.

The next day started off with a trip 60 km away to the site of the awareness programme- Norbuling. The one and a half hours it took us to get there cannot be described as anything less than interesting as our car’s suspension was tested to its limits on the naturally uneven and hilly terrain of the Himalayas. The venue was located in the buffer zone of Royal Manas National Park and known to be quite a popular spot for tigers. They say that almost 150-200 tigers of the area strut across the man-made ‘international boundaries’ with ease and at will.

The St. Petersburg declaration took on a new meaning at that point. With such free movement of the animal between the countries, the need for international cooperation in keeping this majestic animal safe couldn’t be more emphasized on this day dedicated to the feline. The theme for the occasion, chosen with obvious careful thought, resonated the importance of ‘Empowering Local Communities for Tiger Conservation’, with 1500 communities and schools across Norbuling alone. Seeing most of them gather, as the Director General of Thimpu welcomed everyone and talked about the importance of the declaration and the pledge of the Governments of the 13 Tiger Range Countries and conservation partners to protect the tiger, was nothing short of beautiful. As I was rooted to the spot looking around at the crowd, I took a moment to take in what I was seeing- hundreds of communities gathering in a ‘foreign’ country to hear about saving the last of the tiger in the wild all over the world and what they could do about it in their own little way.

A crowd gathers at the opening ceremony
Photo courtesy Nizira Borgoyari

The enthusiasm in the event was evident as the locals participated with some of the village elders sharing tales of their experiences of encounters with tigers in the wild. School children faced-off in a skit competition and a painting contest as they dramatically expressed their messages of saving the tiger. The Director General, Chencho Norbu, emphasised the importance of spreading awareness amongst children as he talked about them being the key source of all eventual communication in the world and the future torch bearers of the significance of tiger conservation.

The Director General, Chencho Norbu, emphasised the importance of
spreading awareness amongst children
Photo courtesy Nizira Borgoyari

Sonam Wanghuk appeared reverent as he talked about the social and cultural significance of the tiger in Bhutan and how it is considered to be one of the four protectors of the Bhutanese society. According to folklore, Guru Rinpoche, a Buddhist saint and teacher, brought the tenets of the religion to Bhutan, riding on the back of a flying tigress at Taktsang. 

If the cultural significance of the animal has been kept in high regard, the ecological significance of this key-stone species has also been given elevated importance in the country. International Fund for Animal Welfare-Wildlife Trust of India had signed an agreement with the Himalayan nation’s Department of Forest and Park Services (DoFPS) and Ministry of Agriculture and Forests (MoAF), as part of its global agenda to conserve iconic species like the tiger and safeguard their dwindling habitats. The agreement incorporated various issues including capacity building of frontline forest staff, training enforcement agencies like the Police, Army, Customs, facilitating provisions of quick aid for wildlife emergencies and helping improve scientific wildlife research.

As someone relatively ‘young’, the sound of the agreement was always impressive and a bit daunting- International cooperation to explore the expansion of the landscape level conservation that is already taking shape in India as Greater Manas, into a trans-boundary initiative. To see this being translated into popular will as multiple people come together to perform their country’s traditional dance, Tashi lebey, in honour of the tiger and the saint who came riding on its back, gives it quite a different… ethereal feel altogether.